Inside Paso Robles

Q and A with the First Lady of Paso Robles Wine

Paso Robles is filled with stories of people who came here on vacation, fell in love with the area and relocated. Brigit Binns is a transplant with a rather interesting story to tell - she makes a mean set of oysters, can teach you how to make cheese or butcher meat and is married to arguably the most interesting man in the wine world. She's living happily in Paso Robles and is putting out a Central Coast cookbook soon.

TravelPaso: First, I have to say thanks so much for submitting monthly recipes to our blog, they are very popular and look delicious. Secondly, please accept our apologies for not getting your cooking classes up on our website before a major national news outlet mentioned them last week!  The journalists claimed to know you, is that right?

Brigit Binns: It’s funny—I met Mike DeSimone and Jeff Jenssen about 8 years ago at a dinner party in New York City, during one of those many periods when I was trying to get back to my native state of California. When they came to research their Huffington Post article, I was out of town, selling our house in upstate New York so I could spend more time in Paso.

TP: So you are planning to give up the East Coast and call Paso home full time?

BB: Well, I first leased a house in Paso in spring of ’10, so I’ve been back and forth—mostly here—for about three years. It seems like I’ve spent most of my life moving away from California, and then trying to get back, but that’s not going to happen anymore. After writing twenty-six cookbooks (many of them for Williams-Sonoma) and editing countless others, my goal is to settle down in a place I love (here), and teach cooking classes among the gnarled oaks and towering eucalyptus trees. But a lot of things had to fall into place before I could start the classes.

TP: It sounds like you are embracing the change with gusto by sharing your joy of cooking with the rest of us.  

BB: I’d like to! To that end, I’ve created a new venue to learn about (and enjoy) cooking, entertaining, and award-winning wines: Refugio. The next class is Fermentation and Bread Making on April 14^th at 4:00 p.m.

TP: That sounds interesting, as do the rest of the classes you have planned. Tell us about the name Refugio.

BB: I chose the name because as a kid, I was lucky enough to spend summers and holidays on the Hollister Ranch (my mom was an extended member of the family). We used to swim at Refugio beach and hike in Refugio canyon. That ranch symbolizes everything I loved about the old California, but I believe that place no longer exists anywhere else in this great state except right around here. And this place really does feel like a refuge to me.

So here I am.  

TP:  It’s great to have you in town. Any other exciting things in the works?

BB:  I’m still writing cookbooks (see The New Wine Country Cookbook: Recipes from California’s Central Coast, coming to major book outlets May 7, but available at the new AndBe boutique on the square in downtown Paso on about April 15).  And my next project is to convince my husband to spend more time here. He’s still got a great teaching job in New York City—but I can tell he’s leaning towards being here full-time. And it’s going to be a great summer…. His name is Casey Biggs, but you may know him as “Paso Wine Man.” Yep. I’m the real wife.

 

Brigit Binns is the author or co-author of numerous best-selling cookbooks, many of them for Williams-Sonoma. Although she has lived, cooked, and celebrated the pleasures of the table from New York to London to Southern Spain—and throughout the Mediterranean—her heart always remained true to her home state of California.  All Refugio classes take place in her beautiful outdoor kitchen in Paso Robles.

 

Artichokes, Tuscan-Style - a recipe, pairing and trimming tutorial

Originally published in The Relaxed Kitchen: How to Entertain with Casual Elegance and Never Lose Your Mind, Incinerate the Soufflé, or Murder the Guests, by Brigit Binns

Nothing says “Spring!” on the Central Coast like lovely, plump-round-green artichokes. I love this California classic to distraction, but trimming them is a bit labor-intensive. Since I’m all about easy, I get the hard work out of the way the night before: Trim and fully cook the ‘chokes as described, then cover and refrigerate them overnight. Don’t forget to fully return to room temperature before finishing with lemon juice, salt, olives, and parsley. For the quintessential spring dinner, serve alongside charcoal-grilled lamb chops seasoned with lavender and sea salt.

Ingredients:

Serves 6

1 lemon, halved
3 medium artichokes, preferably with their stems
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 small onion, coarsely chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 (28-oz) can peeled plum tomatoes, with juice, chopped
Fine sea salt
½ cup very dry white wine, such as Grüner Veltliner or Sauvignon Blanc
Tiny pinch cayenne pepper
1 tablespoon Meyer lemon juice
10 to 12 Calamata olives, pitted and quartered
2 tablespoons roughly chopped flat-leaf parsley

Use the lemon to rub the artichokes as you trim them: pull all of the tough outer leaves off until an inch or so just above the heart is pale yellow. Cut off the top two-thirds of the leaves, then trim the dark bits away around the heart with a small knife. Trim off the very end of the stems, if still on, and peel the stem and any remaining dark bits with a vegetable peeler. Cut each into quarters and scrape out the choke. Place lemon halves and trimmed artichokes into a bowl of cold water as you work.   Here is a quick photo tutorial for trimming artichokes.

In a large deep pan, sauté the onion in the olive oil over medium-low heat. When softened, add the garlic and sauté one minute more. Add the tomatoes, ½ teaspoon salt, and the wine, and bring to a simmer. Cook for 3 minutes, then drain the soaking artichokes well and add them, along with the cayenne, to the pan.

Cover and simmer gently for about 20 minutes, until the hearts are only just tender. Check and stir occasionally and add a little bit of water to the pan, if necessary. Cool to room temperature uncovered, then cover and refrigerate for up to 24 hours.

Return to room temperature and scatter with lemon juice, a little salt, the olives, and parsley before serving.

Artichokes are notoriously difficult to pair with wine, because a compound in artichokes confuses taste buds into perceiving all flavors as sweet. Grüner Veltliner (Zocker makes an excellent example of this Austrian varietal) boasts a steely minerality that can just about hold its own, or go the safer route with Stagecoach Stout from Figueroa Mountain Brewing Co.

Brigit Binns is the author or co-author of twenty-six nationally acclaimed cookbooks, many of them for Williams-Sonoma.

Brigit’s upcoming The New Wine Country Cookbook: Recipes from California’s Central Coast, will be available wherever books are sold starting in May of 2013. 

www.brigitbinns.com.

 

Paso Robles Recipes: Zinfandel Braised Beef

by Brigit Binns

March in Paso Robles wine country brings a month-long celebration of Zinfandel, when 98% of the population eats drinks thinks and lives for this venerated grape variety—one of the first to put our wine region on the international map.

And then there’s the grumbling:  “I know what the groundhog said, but it’s still COLD, and I want comfort food!”

This rich braised beef dish allows us both to celebrate Zinfandel and beat back the last vestiges of winter. The magical alchemy of wine, time, and low temperatures turn an unassuming piece of brisket into an unctuous, heavenly repast, fit for your favorite people in the world.

This dish can be prepared one or even two days ahead—in fact, it's even better; cool to room temperature, then cover and refrigerate the beef in the sauce. Rewarm gently before serving.

Fork-Tender Zin-Braised Beef

Braised beef image from coastgab.com

Serves 6 to 8

 

3 tablespoons finely chopped Italian parsley
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh rosemary
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh sage
4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
3 pounds beef brisket, slightly trimmed of excess fat (don’t overdo this)
3 slices lean bacon, cut crosswise into 1/4-inch strips
1/3 cup plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour, divided
1 teaspoon paprika
Fine sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 small yellow onion, thinly sliced
2 bay leaves
2 medium carrots, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch dice
2 ribs celery, cut into 1/4-inch dice
1 bottle Central Coast Zinfandel, or a Zinfandel blend
1 teaspoon red wine vinegar
Cooked rice, polenta, or wide noodles, for serving

In a small bowl, mix the chopped herbs and garlic together. With a small, sharp knife, cut slits all over the brisket and, using the thin end of a teaspoon, push a strip of bacon into each slit. On a large plate, mix 1/3 cup of the flour with the paprika, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Dredge the brisket in the flour, shaking off the excess.

In a large, heavy casserole heat the butter and olive oil over medium-low heat. Sauté the onion for 3 to 4 minutes, or until softened. Turn the heat up to medium-high and push the onions to one side. Add the brisket and scatter the garlic-herb mixture, bay leaves, carrots and celery around the edges of the pan. Brown the brisket on all sides, stirring and being careful not to scorch the herbs and vegetables. Transfer the meat to a platter and preheat the oven to 300°.

If there is excess fat in the vegetable-herb mixture, drain off a little bit, then sprinkle the remaining 2 tablespoons of flour over it. Stir together for a minute, then add 1 cup of the wine. Bring to a fast boil and, stirring occasionally, reduce the liquid by half. Add the remaining wine, and the vinegar; season with a pinch each of salt and pepper. Bring the wine to a simmer and return the brisket to the casserole. 

Cover the pan securely and braise in the oven for 4 or, even better, 5 hours, turning the meat once every 45 minutes. Transfer the meat to a warm platter and, if the sauce is too thin, loosely cover the meat and boil the sauce for a minute or two to thicken it. Taste for seasoning and adjust with salt and pepper if necessary. Pour the sauce over the meat and serve generous pieces with plenty of sauce, mounded over hot noodles, soft polenta, or rice.

Pair with your favorite Paso Robles zinfandel and enjoy the comfort! 

Brigit Binns is the author or co-author of twenty-six nationally acclaimed cookbooks, many of them for Williams-Sonoma. Brigit’s upcoming The New Wine Country Cookbook: Recipes from California’s Central Coast, will be available wherever books are sold starting in May of 2013. (Ms. Binns' recipe shown here was originally featured on Cooking.com.) www.brigitbinns.com.

Raw Oysters with Saffron and Sauvignon Blanc Granita with Derby Sparkling Pinot Noir

by Brigit Binns

Whether the famed aphrodisiac qualities associated with oysters are reality or fantasy—I say, who cares? Ready to wow your beloved with a truly extraordinary meal? There is no better way to say “I love you” than some fresh and local California oysters. One thing I do know for sure: If you feel moved to add a perfectly cooked steak to your menu, the earth will likely move for both of you!

My upcoming cookbook, (it’s my 26th!) is all about the delicious bounty in and around the Central Coast, not the least of which are great oysters—and of course fantastic wines to pair with them. This recipe calls for topping the briny bivalves with a simple-to-make, bracing but luxurious granita—aka sorbet, Italian-style—of Central Coast Sauvignon Blanc infused with grains of the costliest spice in the world: saffron. (Luckily, you only need a tiny pinch!)

Let’s get started!
 
Raw Oysters with Saffron and Sauvignon Blanc Granita with Derby Sparkling Pinot Noir
Makes 40 oysters on the half-shell

Granita:

Photo by Colin Clark for The New Wine Country Cookbook: Recipes from California's Central Coast

2½ cups Central Coast Sauvignon Blanc, such as Ancient Peaks or Viña Robles
Pinch of saffron threads, available wherever high-quality spices are sold, and at www.penzeys.com
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
¼ teaspoon fine sea salt
¼ teaspoon sugar
Freshly ground black pepper

 

To serve:
40 small, live oysters, shucked and on the half-shell 
Black lava salt or fleur de sel

In a small saucepan, bring the wine to a boil over medium heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and add the saffron. Let cool to room temperature, then stir in the lemon juice, salt, sugar, and black pepper. Pour into a large metal roasting pan and freeze for 30 minutes.

Scrape with a fork to flake the ice, then freeze for 30 to 45 minutes more, scraping the ice crystals every 15 to 20 minutes until the granita is pale and fluffy.

Line one or two large platters with crushed ice and arrange the oysters on top. Spoon a teaspoon or so of the saffron-flecked granita over each oyster and scatter with a little black lava salt; serve immediately, ideally with a flute of Derby Wine Estates sparkling Pinot Noir.

Enjoy the month of love from Paso Robles wine and oyster country!

--Brigit Binns is the author or co-author of twenty-six nationally acclaimed cookbooks, many of them for Williams-Sonoma. The above recipe and 119 more can be found in Brigit’s upcoming The New Wine Country Cookbook: Recipes from California’s Central Coast, available wherever books are sold starting in May of 2013. (The pairing suggested here was developed by Sonja Magdevski, winemaker at Casa Dumetz in Los Alamos, California.) www.brigitbinns.com.